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Trad climbing rack - what's on it?

Updated: Feb 2, 2020

Go in to V12 or any other quality climbing shop and you’ll be hit by vast amounts of climbing kit of all different shapes, sizes and colours. Much of it will be different brands versions of stuff from locally made quality DMM kit to lovely US made Black Diamond stuff to name just two.


But what do you need?

That’s a very good question that will elicit all sorts of answers from all sorts of people. The experienced amongst us carry what we carry because we’ve learnt through experience and refined what we carry, which for the most part will be pretty similar, but we all have our little nuances!


Nuts

DMM Wallnuts 1-11 and another set 1-7. 1,1,2,2,3,4 on one DMM Phantom snapper, 3,4,5,5,6,7 on another and 6,7,8,9,10,11 on another – all colour coded



DMM Offsets 7-11 on their own DMM Phantom snapper

Cams

DMM Dragons 0-5 (silver -blue), each on their own colour coded DMM Phantom snappers


Quickdraws, 12 x DMM Phantom ‘draws, 2x15cm – 2x18cm – 4x25cm – 4x60cm (sling draws)




Screwgates, One big DMM Boa HMS that’ll take some clove hitches when building a belay, one DMM Sentinal, a mini HMS, that’s a good general purpose SG, One DMM Phantom small SG.


Slings, 3x120cm DMM 8mm each on a DMM Phantom snapper, 1x240cm DMM 8mm, on a DMM Phantom snapper


The other bits Belay plate – BD ATC Guide on a DMM Sentinal SG

Nut key – DMM Nut Buster on a DMM Phantom snapper, plus a piece of cord so I can attach it to be while I’m persuading a nut out of a tricky spot

Prussiks – Two, one 5mm, one 6mm, both made up of cord approx 150cm tied with a double fishermans and on a DMM Phantom snapper


What no hexes?!

Personally no, however when you’re first starting out they a great bit of kit to have – I have a set of 4 DMM Torque Nuts for work. In personal climbing I’ll carry them only if I think the route really suits them (Ruckle in Swanage for example).