Rock Climbing Instructor (the new Single Pitch Award) and Mountain Leader courses.

I did Business Studies as one of my A-Levels at school and I’m sure somewhere inside my head a few things stuck but it’s hard to say! One thing definitely did though. We were told it’s very poor form (I went to a posh school) to bad mouth other companies to try and sell yourself, and I absolutely agree, it still grates me to this day if I see an advert on TV saying “We’re cheaper than X”.

Living in North Wales there’s a number of other providers and even if I did want to bad mouth any of them, how could I because they’re all really good at what they do! Yep, that’s right, whoever you pick up here to go on a training or assessment with will deliver an amazing course where you’ll learn loads and have a great time. Mountain Training don’t just let anyone be a provider of their courses and those of us that are approved providers get moderated by them as well to make sure we’re doing a good job, and also to help us do an even better job!

mountain leader and climbing instructor I love climbing, read my blogs or social media and that’s pretty clear, you can even look at my UKC logbook to see what I’ve been up to lately. I got in to climbing through hill walking and have been up virtually every hill and mountain round here by virtually every path and scramble, I’ve wild camped in countless amazing spots – but there’s countless more still to be discovered! The mountains are an absolute playground full of exciting adventure potential.

I also love enthusing others about what I love myself and passing on the skills I’ve learnt over the years so people can go off and have their own amazing experiences and perhaps use those to teach and lead others in a chain reaction of promoting our wonderful playground. My experience enables me to do this in a relaxed and confident way, meaning that clients are put at ease, enabling them to learn as much as possible and have fun, even on assessments – which is absolutely fundamental to being out and about in the mountains or on a cliff face. There is no place for being dull in my world!

I spent years enjoying working with my SPA and ML awards, with all sorts of clients from kids to OAPs and climbing taster sessions to mountain expeditions, I still enjoy the occasional bit of that sort of work to keep my hand in. That’s really important, as I don’t want to forget what it’s like to deliver these sort of sessions, so when I’m delivering MT awards I can keep it relevant and draw on real world scenarios. In addition to that I still love learning myself so am up to date with my CPD and also sit on the committee for the Association of Mountaineering Instructors.

Brief extract from the moderation visit on one of our SPA courses in 2017: “Jez is a keen climber and is regularly found cranking at the Beacon. His enthusiasm of climbing comes through as part of his course promotion and delivery, in which candidates feel in the company of a dedicated mountaineering instructor who keeps his skill set fresh along with a strong commitment to cpd.
Jez’s course was being run to a good standard and clearly the candidates were put at ease and enjoying the process, particularly the reviewing of each task with each other. The information flow was good and the syllabus was being covered in a logical way.”

Whilst I direct all our MT courses myself, I am at times joined by various other instructors to help me out and that’s great because it brings another input to our courses. Any extra staff joining us are qualified to the same level as me and very importantly they’re massively psyched for climbing in the mountains just like me plus like me they want you to have an ace time learning loads and having plenty of fun! These are people I climb and mountaineer with myself, I’m extremely particular about who I employ!

If we can help you with a Mountain Leader or Single Pitch Award (of which we ran more than any other company in Wales last year and soon to be Rock Climbing Instructor), feel free to get in touch! We’re always happy to give advice and help so even if you’re not booking a course with us give us a shout or say hi if you see me out and about.

As usual check out our Facebook, Instagram & Twitter pages to see what we’ve been up to lately…

… we’re running loads of ML & SPA’s / RCI’s this year, some still have spaces, for more info on our courses explore the website and take a look at the Mountain Training website for more specific info about the schemes themselves.

Rock Climbing Instructor, the new Single Pitch Award

So the SPA has been around a long time, especially when you consider it was the SPSA before that (the extra S was for supervisor), but it’s days are numbered! In April ’18 the award will be replaced by the Rock Climbing Instructor scheme. We’ll be continuing to provide the SPA until then, after which we will be providing RCI training and assessment courses.

If you’re already registered for the SPA scheme, you’ll have received an email (if you’ve kept your email address up to date!) from Mountain Training explaining the changes.

The first thing is there’s nothing to worry about, change is good!

– If you’re already an SPA, great! You will continue to be an SPA, plus you’ll also be an RCI. Mountain Training will update your details.

– If you’re an SPA trainee, you can either do your assessment before April ’18 and qualify as an SPA, you will then also be an RCI, or you can do your assessment after April ’18 and pass as an RCI.

– If you’re yet to do your SPA training, you can still do it prior to April ’18 and this will count as your training for your RCI.

– If you’re registered for the SPA, but won’t don the training before April, no drama, your registration for SPA is valid as registration for RCI too.

You’ll see that the change won’t alter your timeframe, nor will they alter the scope of the scheme, where you can work or what you can do with the award. You won’t be paying any more registration fees and assessments will be the same price (with us, other providers may alter their prices, who knows), training courses will increase in cost though (our price will be £190) because…..

The new RCI training will differ in that it is an extra day, now three days, to incorporate a full day indoors at a wall. If you already hold your CWA (to be renamed CWI) or are CWA / CWI trained, you’ll be able to attend a two day training, if a provider is running one where all candidates are CWA / CWI trained or assessed. The extra day is a good thing, means we can cover more and consolidate skills more during the course too.

Rock climbing improver course

More indoor fun times on the RCI, great news!

The scope of the scheme:
– Teach climbing skills.
– Take people climbing, bouldering and abseiling.
– Manage groups safely in these activities.

The pre reqs to do the RCI training course:
– Lead 15 trad routes (as per SPA)
– Lead 15 routes at a climbing wall
– Lead 5 sport routes
– Plus the normal 18 years old, member of a Mountaineering Council etc

The consolidation period stays pretty similar but specifies a minimum of 20 group supervision sessions – 10 indoors, 10 outdoors.

The assessment pre reqs again stay similar to the SPA:
– 40 trad leads (20 must be severe or higher)
– 30 climbing wall leads at F4 or above
– 10 sport routes at F4 or above
– 20 group sessions (10 indoors, 10 outdoors)

You’ll find the syllabus will change slightly, but for the most part this’ll just be wording to clarify the points. The RCI will though look at how to manage other staff (assistants), and also consider the use of fixed gear like lower offs on sport routes.

So I guess put simply, the Rock Climbing Instructor scheme is for the most part the same as the SPA, but better! We’ll have time to cover more and help you become a better instructor.

In addition to the RCI, there will also be a Rock Climbing Development Instructor qualification allowing people to teach leading at single pitch crags, this will be a great award, but expect the pre reqs to be high (rightly so!), maybe 60 VS trad routes, 60 6a sport routes, 20 days as an SPA / RCI and for a 4 day training course and a 3 day assessment. We hope to be providers for that scheme too but we’ll have to wait and see!

If we can be of any help with your qualification journey, or if you have any questions just get in touch!

You can check out the Mountain Training website for further updates.

As usual check out our Facebook, Insta and Twitter feeds for what we’ve been up to 🙂

Running a Rock Climbing Instructor award assessment isn't all about sitting around with a stern face...!

The day actually starts the evening before the RCI assessment, with a final check of the candidate's DLogs on the Mountain Training website when I’ll make a few notes on each person. It’s a good system, if you keep on top of logging your routes and sessions it’s pretty quick to do, it only becomes tiresome if you build up a backlog. From a Course Director’s point of view it’s really easy to use and I can check everyone’s experience very quickly, I’m a fan.

After that I’ll go and get all my kit sorted for the day, I like my extra minutes in bed in the morning! My personal kit all gets packed up along with plenty of warm kit, especially at this time of year, and I’ll put in plenty of other kit in case the candidates need to borrow anything such as extra static ropes, gri gris, abseil fig 8’s and a couple of guide books. It’s good to have plenty available on the day.

As per normal I’ll wake up before my alarm and check any emails, browse Facebook, see what odd thing Donald Trump has done to make the news today… My courses run from Pete’s Eats in Llanberis which is ideal and only five minutes away and when I get there I meet the candidates and have a quick chat.

spa assessor walesOften I’ll know one or two of them from a training course or something else we may have done together which is always nice, it’s equally great to be meeting new people going through the scheme. I still remember exactly what it was like when I was starting my climbing career and we all still go through various assessments so I know that it can be a stressful experience! I try my best to make sure my courses are as relaxed as possible, my feeling is people perform best when they’re comfortable and it’s not my place to be putting unnecessary pressure on people because I’m sure they’re putting enough of that on themselves! I try and set out what’s expected of them, which shouldn’t be anything surprising as they’ve already done a RCI training course.

We run through the rough plan for the couple of days, check that people have the right kit etc, talk about the scheme and Mountain Training, the possible results (Pass, defer, fail) and then we head out to a nearby crag for the bulk of day one, which for me is mainly focused on group work.

single pitch award assessment coursLion Rock is my normal first choice, as it’s super close and ticks all the RCI boxes, knowing it well there’s also some less well travelled parts that mean even if it’s busy I can find us some space. This is where the assessment really starts for the candidates! As much as I’m facilitating a nice chilled environment, I am still assessing so I’m taking in as much info as possible, what kind of harness have they got? Does it look used? Have they put it on correctly without faffing? I start asking some questions too like does this crag meet the RCI requirements, do they know the RCI requirements? What hazards are there here?

Getting things moving along I set the first task, I’d like them to set up something to get a group of novices climbing and I give each candidate a rough area to work in, to which someone will probably ask "do you mean a bottom rope?" I probably won’t answer this directly, not to be awkward, but I’m trying to work out if the candidate is thinking about the right sort of things.

As the candidates get to work, so do I. I’ve got a maximum of four candidates, that I potentially know very little about so although I’m trying to give them breathing space, I also need to keep a close eye on what they’re doing, with a lot of my focus on their personal safety, checking that they’re appropriately attached to something good when they are operating on or near an edge. I’ll wander around checking anchors and just having a general look at what’s going on, I’ll chat to people a bit as well, maybe about what they’re doing, but equally just having a nice chat to get to know them, I always want to enjoy my time at the crag. From an assessor’s point of view there’s loads going on now, so I will make the occasional note, but I’ll be sure to do this out of sight as much as possible, I don’t think it’s very nice to be sat looking at someone’s setup making notes.

Once people have completed their task, I’ll pop over and have a chat about it, ask a few questions to try and understand people's thought process, and sometimes make a suggestion or two. Normally these are fine tuning points, I’d be gutted if even really slick people didn’t learn something from my assessments! At other times I might not be happy that what they’ve setup is safe to use, in which case we’ll have a chat and I’ll give them the chance to rectify it, ideally working it out themselves - we all make mistakes on assessments, if you do, it’s important to deal with it and move on, you’re unlikely to defer on one error.

single pitch award assessment walesAs the candidates have just set up bottom ropes (hopefully!), we then go and use them, with each candidate running a mini session on their route involving the rest of us, I may throw in the odd problem, if it’s appropriate to the context of the route. At this point I’m looking to see clear demonstrations and instructions, before the safe management of a belay system and climb, hopefully involving all of us. I normally ask the candidates individually what belay system they would use out of choice, but may ask them to do something else so each person is doing something a bit different. This gives us a chance for each candidate to review a system's pros and cons once we’ve seen some different things going on.

Next! Group abseil time, this is probably the most complicated setup an RCI holder will do, it’s not rocket science but it does have a few different things going on, and people know they’ll probably have to solve a problem when their time comes to send someone down it, usually a stuck hair or stuck on a ledge problem. Today, we’ve moved away from the main part of Lion Rock because it became busy with a couple of other groups running taster sessions. I’ll try my best to move out of other people’s way where possible, because I can probably make things work in places where it might not be as good for them. Whilst setting up the group abseil in the new location (Spotty Walls area of Lion Rock), I find myself a good vantage point to see everyone doing their thing and make a few notes on what people have done so far, if I don’t do it, I forget! As I mentioned earlier, it’s important that people keep learning so if there’s anything I’ve seen that I think the group will benefit from chatting about, I’ll make a note of that too.

learn to lead trad rock climb wye valleyOnce a couple of people are ready to go, I get one candidate to manage another one down their abseil whilst I observe. I’m looking for them to get the abseiler safely to the abseil, give them a good brief and to have positioned themselves in an appropriate spot. Was the abseiler on a safety rope well before the edge? Is the candidate safe and able to see all the way to the bottom? Do they keep hold of the dead rope? Part way down the route I introduce a problem such as hair stuck in the abseil device, I’m looking for the candidate to solve this in a safe manner and fairly slickly, it doesn’t need to be super fast, slow and steady is good for me. The candidates have to be on top of their game here and so do I, I'll have already given the set up the once over, but I'm also watching what they're tieing off / releasing really closely. It’s usually pretty obvious who has practiced this and who hasn’t! As the next person running an abseil has a ledge halfway down their route, their candidate becomes crag fast on it, so they get a different problem that requires another method to solve it, but again I’m looking for the same things - safe and slick.

SPA climbing course kit dmm dragon camsMust be lunch time! After a good sandwich and a hot drink I’m ready to go again, so it’s time to get the candidates working again! I’ve set a few tasks, so one runs us through harness checks, one runs us through putting our harness on properly, one talks us through a variety of belay devices and the other talks us through how to place a cam well. One of the candidates didn’t quite nail the group abseil setup as well as I’d like so I send them off to do this again in another spot, whilst the others place some gear and equalise these with slings, before I send them off to do another setup for novices (yep, that’s a bottom rope!), each in a different spot to what they've used already. One of the candidate's nut placements weren’t quite what I was after so I send them to a spot that relies on nuts, to try and get them to redeem themselves, which they do. Crag knowledge pays dividends for me to be able to create the scenarios I need to see.

After a bit of chat about the environment and our responsibilities at the crag, it’s time to head to the Beacon climbing wall for the indoor element of the assessment, and I ask the candidates to be ready to deliver a couple of games that have a learning point attached to them. When we get to the Beacon, it’s cafe o’clock first, which gives us a chance to go over the home paper that candidates get sent prior to the assessment.

single pitch award indoors spaAfter a bit of a warm up and the candidates running their games - which I’m looking to be fun, educational and safe, we harness up. The indoor wall gives me a great chance to see lots of belaying, catching falls (just on a top rope), tieing off the belay plate etc. and we’ll use a variety of different belay devices plus all the usual waffle from me. As with the outdoor stuff there maybe a few problems to solve as well, even though the key is always problem avoidance in the first place!

After a quick debrief and a chat about day two, that’s about it for the day!

I’m usually pretty tired after an RCI day to be honest. You might think the assessor just sits around thinking about what’s for tea, occasionally getting up for a little stroll, but while I may sometimes sit down for a bit if I find a comfy rock, my mind is constantly working. What’s he doing there? Is she safe? Has he got an equal number of strands coming out the back of that knot? Is that krab done up? How we doing for time? What are we doing next? What more do I need to see from each person? Have they met the standards so far?

That's day 1 done! Day 2 is more of the same but with the syllabus items we haven yet covered - Lead climbing (NOT the same as personal climbing, top roping, abseiling yourself down etc.)

Whilst my candidates are still learning, the same goes for me, I learn something every day at work and I believe it’s imperative that we all review at the end of each day and put anything appropriate into practice.

Hopefully the waffle above gives you a bit of an idea of what to expect from an RCI assessment day, and a little insight into an assessor’s thoughts. Every RCI provider has their own way of doing things, their own styles, their own itineraries, so it goes without saying that these thoughts are only my own ramblings!

To summarise what I’m looking for from candidates…

  • Safety
  • Efficiency rather than speed
  • Appropriate setups
  • An understanding of what they’re doing
  • Thought about the "group"
  • Enthusiasm

And from me…

  • Safety, keeping myself safe and also the candidates
  • Maximising time through efficiency
  • Creating a relaxed, friendly, learning atmosphere
  • A robust, fair assessment
  • Picking appropriate crags, often to make the most of wind direction etc
  • Enthusiasm (that’s easy, I live for climbing!)

If you're looking for an RCI course, or anything check out the rest of the website for more information and don't hesitate to get in touch if we can be of any help!

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A chilly day in North Wales for an SPA refresher course!

We started off at Lion Rock, before heading over to Union Rock, then running away to the Beacon climbing wall!

Carol was with us refreshing her skills and we covered loads!

I had a tired training session at the wall after, just about struggled up a 7a which I’m pretty happy with considered my energy levels were low 🙂







































The Single Pitch Award is the qualification that allows you to take people climbing at single pitch crags and a ticket that most instructors will want to work towards. Once you have it, it opens up a lot of work opportunities.

In line with other Mountain Training awards it is made up of a training course and an assessment with a consolidation period in between.

The assessment is two days long and will be mostly outdoors but does include a climbing wall element.

The first thing I do as an assessor is check out your DLOG prior to the course starting. Embrace the DLOG! Yes it can be a pain in the butt to log stuff from the past, but get it done as best you can and when you’ve been climbing adding the details to it each time you go out is pretty quick and painless. Turning up with your routes and supervisory experience scribbled on a scrap of paper doesn’t really set a good, professional impression does it? The number of routes and supervising sessions are on the MT site in black and white, if you don’t have enough, I can’t pass you however good you are. At the other end of the scale if you well exceed the minimum requirement, this can sometimes buy you a bit of “benefit of the doubt”. Remember, a MINIMUM of 40 routes with a decent amount of Severes, in three different areas.

The amount of things you are assessed on over the two days is actually pretty small, take a look at the syllabus. An assessor will want to see you lead a Severe, set up a personal abseil, top rope, bottom rope, group abseil, teach/supervise some appropriate belay techniques, solve a simple problem or two and do a bit in the climbing wall. There’s other bits a pieces you might get asked about like fitting kit, taking care of kit, a bit of flora etc., but there’s no great surprises.

If you’ve practiced the above you should be nice and efficient (no need to rush!), you should also be placing solid bits of gear and appearing nice and confident. Assessors will be making judgements from the outset, so even the way you rack up will tell us a lot, are you faffing around unsure of where to clip your quikdraws or is it all well dialled?

When you lead your Severe, you’ll probably be given a guidebook and told to go and climb a route. Once you’ve found an appropriate route we’d like to see you climb the route efficiently, not sketching your way up it, placing quality gear placements, extending stuff appropriately and then setting up a text book belay at the top. Did you do a buddy check at the start, did you use appropriate climbing calls, are you sat down or stood up, is that rope running over your leg, can you see your second?

Later on you’ve set up an abseil to go and get some stuck gear back, how have you backed it up, where have you clipped your prussik to, how have you backed your prussik up whist getting that stuck bit of gear out, how could you protect your mate who’s forgotten their prussik?

Next up, you’ve set up a top rope for a group of intermediate people. Are you going to use a belay plate or Italian hitch, where do your clients go once they’ve topped out, why have you used that nut instead of that tree, are you tight on your anchors, your client is refusing to move off that nice comfy ledge because they’re scared – what are you going to do (you are out of the system aren’t you?)?

Then it’s off to the climbing wall for a bit of bottom roping and bouldering. What games can you play and importantly what do your group learn from the game, you did do a warm up didn’t you, helmet or no helmet for that auto belay, how many routes can you manage at once, what considerations are there when using a climbing wall, tie in or clip in, you clients traversed miles off route – quick what you going to do?

Few, day one over!


Second day.. First job, fit these harness’s to the rest of the group and give them a brief about the day etc. What’s that plant over there? What’s the rock type here?

Right, group of novice climbers, that’ll be a bottom rope then. Hopefully you’ve set something up on a suitable route and the ropes not running over any edges or anything, as always we’d give the setup the once over, hopefully seeing some good gear placements and something safe and simple. How are you going to get all the group involved, you going to use an ATC/Grigri/Italian Hitch, bell ringing or “proper” belaying, little Johnny is scared on that ledge again – refusing to move – sort him out, lowering time – you did practice that lower down didn’t you?

What’s left to do? Oh yes, the good old group abseil! So when I come up to check that one I’m going to be looking for the standard safe and simple setup, good gear etc. I’ll probably ask where your clients would be waiting, how they’re going to get to the abseil “zone”, you have considered that haven’t you? I hope they haven’t got to step over that pile of messy rope you’ve forgotten to get squared away…

You’ve done well so far…

Whilst one of the other candidates is abseiling down your line, surprise surprise, they’ve got their hair stuck (you didn’t check they’d tied it back?!), hopefully you’ve set up a releasable abseil?

Debrief time.

Hopefully you’ve done well, presented a good DLOG and have a valid first aid ticket. Brilliant, that’s a pass then.

A bit weak in one or two areas, never mind, a deferral and action plan. No stress you’ve performed well in most areas, come back after a bit of work and you’ll smash it.

Too far off the mark on too many areas, sadly that’s a fail. Did you read the syllabus and get out practicing? Oh dear, again here’s what you need to go away and focus on. Come back after that and I’m sure you’ll cruise it.

Hopefully that was worth a read!

The stuff I’ve written isn’t exhaustive, you maybe asked to do the odd other bit and you may be quizzed on a few other things, plus there’s a home paper, but it gives you an idea of what goes on. The vast majority of assessors are super chilled out, a lot of the time, we’d just leave you to it whilst setting up but will give you good feedback – you should be learning lot’s on an assessment no matter what level you’re at.

Can you set up all that stuff and answer all the questions?

The theme is – Practice, have a decent logbook, stay relaxed and it’s just a nice two days out on the crag.

Check out this PDF I made a while ago with some specific setup info etc

Also read the SPA hand book and the Rock Climbing book by Libby Peter/Mountain Training, it’s super useful.

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