16th March 2015

Route of the Week Number 8

It’s been a while, but I couldn’t not do a ROTW piece after climbing Scavenger on the Main Cliff at Gogarth. What a mega classic!

Main Cliff is a pretty special place to climb, the atmosphere and history of the place is amazing, add to that the views and wildlife and Gogarth is hard to beat

Scavenger is a 3*, three pitch HVS with pitches of 4c, 5a and 4b, even the approach is a bit of an adventure which just goes to add to the whole experience. Identifying the right line as you traverse accross (having checked the tides!) is the second obstacle, the first is negotiating the fairly spicy decent….

The first pitch is a short one, about 10 metres of 4c up to a big ledge with good gear for building a belay. It’s steady climbing and the main event of the second pitch lays in wait.

Anthony leading up P1

The second pitch is so good it’s almost ridiculous. It’s about 45 metres of absolute joy. Above the first belay there’s corner with a stuck nut, the first few moves are a little tricky but the gear is good so just keep bridging on amazing rock. At the 10 metre mark look for your exit to the right, around the arete and onto slopey ledges keeping an eye out for two rusty pegs. I equalised these with a sling, they’re ok but not great, it’s no drama though as there’s plenty more good gear around.

After chilling on the ledge for a minute, enjoying the surroundings, it’s time to get going. The cracked groove above is the stuff climbing dreams are made of! The Ground Up guide suggests you float up this, I think you’re better off bridging and pulling on mega holds in the crack, which has more than enough gear opportunities, mostly medium sized kit.

Looking up the start of P2 with me below the top crack

All to soon the pitch is over and you arrive on a small square ledge, I think I place a Blue Dragon high up and used a sling over a spike to belay on.

Anthony reaching the top of P2

Pitch three is ok, a bit broken with some loose bits, we kept this short and then ran out a 4th long scramble – grass pitch, definitely worth staying roped up on for sure.

What a route! I really enjoyed it and to cap it off we went and did Britomartis on Wen Slab, another very good route.

Check the tides, carry a normal rack of about 12 ‘draws and standard rack of nuts, cams and slings.

If you’d like to learn the skills necessary to climb routes like this or would just like guiding, get in touch! For photos of what we’ve been up to lately work wise, check out our Facebook page.

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