3rd May 2014

More Trad Climbing in North Wales

I managed to grab a few hours climbing this afternoon, we headed to Carreg Wastad due to the short walk in. Although it’s got some really good routes on it, it is generally a little loose in places.

Will had his eye on Old Holborn, a classic E1 5b of the crag.  Will lead up the first pitch belaying in the Holly bushes and then I lead us up the short linking second pitch. Will then took the really good crux pitch that was pretty cheeky for the grade! I thought maybe E2, a mix of delicate grooves followed by “Monkey Swinging” through the roof! I lead the final pitch which is a slightly bold 5a, but the holds are pretty positive and much easier than the crux pitch.

After that we did the classic VS 4c, Shadow Wall. Although it’s pretty polished it’s still a brilliant route, which handily has some abseil tat at the top to speed up the decent. We saw some birds eggs too in a nest on top of a Holly Tree, any ideas what bird they’re from (pic below)?

As we left the crag there was a pair on the mega classic Severe, Crackstone Rib, a must do route of the Pass. If you fancy climbing this classic have a look at Rock Climbing Course page.

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